The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Modern Britain: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Than We Were Decades Ago.

A serendipitous meeting during a tube journey in 1988 transformed the path of a teenage Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the capital's electric 1990s cultural landscape, moving from model to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the style editor of i-D magazine.

"It was the zenith of the Young British Artists – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I felt we’d be close. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I long for that energy."

While Enninful may seem sentimental, he is in good company. Recently, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has become pervasive. Yet over the last thirty years, Enninful perceives a noticeable regression. "I feel, we’re less accepting now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "It’s not even this country – it’s worldwide."

A Perceived Regression

This regression is hard to ignore: the resurgence of nationalist groups, the backlash against progressive values, and the return of Eurocentric beauty standards. Replacing the optimism of the previous decade, now a different political personality stands as a possible leader. Even, the Union Jack, once an emblem of national pride, has sparked debate once more.

For Enninful, the response has long been to champion culture in all its diversity. This was the guiding principle behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, featuring a diverse array of influential figures from politics.

"Individuals with a platform should employ it," he comments, explaining those editorial decisions. "There is much discussion about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain were not a lenient country, if it refused my family a home and an education. That’s the Britain I believed in. I trust this phase will end."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He draws solace in the next generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They analyse systemic issues – I had no concept what that was."

The beginnings of his career would forge a trailblazing career built on fearlessness and inclusivity. Enninful set a precedent as the first man, first black man, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His time featured historic front pages showcasing Black models, curvy models, older individuals, and people from all walks of life. Critically, sales rose.

"When you ignore huge sections of the population, it’s more than that you’re excluding people – it’s commercially unwise," he explains.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has since founded his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his key endeavour since departing his former post. He expresses a desire to continue being a "change-maker".

"My nature is to challenge the conventional wisdom. I was born and raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the physicians, the attorneys, the leader. Then we came to England, without funds, and I found myself on the margins. I was very shy. My teachers said I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a dual identity on the inside and the outside."

Contrary to the stereotype of industry figures as loud and highly strung, Enninful is calm and projects peace. His life has included its share of adversity, including well-documented struggles with depression and addiction.

He has also endured significant health challenges, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, resulting in limited vision. "I experienced such a dark place for two years, away from work, anxious I was going to lose my sight. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I vowed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This refusal to be typecast has led him beyond the realm that made his name. He is now curating a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a group of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to evoke the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and give platform to those who weren't given due recognition at the time.

"Galleries often failed to promote the right artists because they lacked the right pedigree," he states.

This venture itself operates on a novel strategy, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "We ask, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an experience, a series? The magazine is part of a greater ecosystem."

Looking Forward Without Fear

Today, Enninful stands as one of the world's most respected industry leaders. His path, he states, is a demonstration to the power of following your instincts.

What would the younger Edward think of the his current self? He smiles. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be proud. In those days I was a rebel. I never imagined institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."

He pauses. "Gratitude is key. We fled, we left our homeland. I almost lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have doubted me my entire life. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve set my intention to do something."